GEEETECH A10 REVIEW
Introduction
Off the back of
Creality3D’s Ender 3 launch, GeeeTech has produced their version/clone in the A10.
This is a slightly larger and cheaper unit and utilises GeeeTech’s GT2560 RevB
Open Source Controller. The Build area for the Ender 3 comes in at 220 x 220
x 250mm with the A10 being 220 x 220 x 260mm. The other notable difference between the two units is the larger LCD and more powerful PSU in the Ender 3 unit that the A10 lacks.
I always keep an
open mind when I get new products, and as there is little info on this 3D
printer out there I was ready for anything. So let’s start with the all the
Spec stuff then I will get into the guts of this machine.
Geeetech A10 specifications
Launched
in:
2018
Assembly:
Semi-assembled
Mechanical
arrangement: Cartesian-XZ-Head
Manufacturer:
GEEETECH
Manufacturer
country: China
Materials
Printable
materials:
PLA, PETG
Filameter
diameter:
1.75 mm
Compatible with 3rd
party filaments? Yes an open material system
Build volume
Print size
millimeters (xyz): 220
x 220 x 260 mm
Print size inches
(xyz):
8.6 x 8.6 x 10.2 inches
Accuracy:
11 x
11 x 2.5 Microns
Layer
resolution:
100
- 400 Microns
Feeder
system:
Bowden
Extruder
type:
Single
Nozzle
size:
0.4
mm
Max extruder
temperature: 428
°F / 250 °C
Max heated bed
temperature: 212
°F / 100 °C
Frame:
Aluminum
Closed print
chamber:
No, an open structure
Temperature
controlled print chamber: No
Bed
leveling:
Manual
Print bed
details:
Heated bed with adhesive coating
Firmware:
Open-source
Board:
Open
source GT2560 board
Connectivity:
SD, USB
Built in
camera:
No
Print
recovery:
Yes
Filament
sensor:
No, but
may fitted later
Requirements
Slicing:
EasyPrint 3D
Operating
system(s): Linux
Operating
system(s): Mac
OS X
Operating
system(s): Windows
Input:
110 - 240V
Output:
24 V DC / 15A
Dimensions and weight
Outer dimensions
inches
(xyz): 18.82
x 16.26 x 19.09 inches
Outer dimensions
millimeters (xyz): 478 x 413 x 485 mm
Weight
lb:
16.5 pounds
Weight
kg:
7.5 kg
Unboxing
The 3D printer arrived
in an unmarked cardboard box just like all the other 3D printers that I have purchased. From previous experience I was expecting damage to the machine and all of its components
from the postage process.
On opening the box you will find the instruction leaflet and package list. This is to confirm you have all the required parts to build the 3D printer. Note: if you are missing anything, get onto your supplier for whats missing, this has happened to me in the past.
After I went through the box I was pleasantly surprised that there was nothing broken,
scratched, dented and most of all nothing was missing. GeeeTech has done a great job with the packaging, and I was very happy to see that everything had a place and was well protected.
After I removed all the parts I only found one screw at the bottom of the box that had vibrated loose from the Hot End attachment. Not a huge issue, and easy to fix.
I then proceeded to
do a close inspection of all the parts for damage. Starting with the upper
gantry section. This is where I discovered that the Bowden Tube
entering the top of the Hot End had been snapped or severed.
This is a really
curious place for damage and I can’t see how they would have missed this in the
QC process in the factory or during packaging. All I could come up with is that it was done in transit some how? Maybe rubbing against the packaging and/or vibrated until it broke?
Anyway it’s an easy fix and I intended to repair when I checked the Hot End Assembly. I then proceeded to disassemble the Hot End to check for damage and design
flaws.
The hot end itself is an interesting design, it looks like a Modified E3D design with the Bowden Tube extending right down to the nozzle.
I do these types of inspections to find any damage that may have occurred during transportation or manufacturing. On this particular machine received,
I
found the wires that go to the cooling fan for the print had been squashed
between the outer case and the rail bracket. I would assume this would have
been done during the manufacturing process and missed in their QC Process.
I do these types of inspections to find any damage that may have occurred during transportation or manufacturing. On this particular machine received,
When I removed the case, the wire was only squashed and not severed so it was still ok to be used, but it’s something I will have to keep an
eye on and look at replacing in the future. I also noted that all the cabling for the Hot End cartage and thermostat is
wrapped up and held in the cover, this is a concern too but will be easy to fix in the
future.
I found that the mounting of the Hot End cooling fan is strange, I can't see it being very efficient. I will start to design a new cover, something that incorporates the Fang design would be perfect here.
I found that the mounting of the Hot End cooling fan is strange, I can't see it being very efficient. I will start to design a new cover, something that incorporates the Fang design would be perfect here.
What I also noticed
that this machine had not been used, this means there was no QC print test before
packaging.
Everything else on the upper gantry look good so I moved onto the bottom gantry.
I went right over this part and found nothing that was of concern.
It was great to find that the build platform is one of the best I have seen and really well though out. All the wiring is soldered straight to the board (not through plug that can burn out) and there is a rigid wire strain relief. But I will look at covering the exposed solder points with something when I get into Mod mode.
I went right over this part and found nothing that was of concern.
It was great to find that the build platform is one of the best I have seen and really well though out. All the wiring is soldered straight to the board (not through plug that can burn out) and there is a rigid wire strain relief. But I will look at covering the exposed solder points with something when I get into Mod mode.
Opening the
controller box, I was happy to see an old friend with replaceable servo AMP’s
and an easy to modify GT2560, but wait this looks to be an upgraded model, yep
Rev B.
Woo Hoo, this means Filament detection and bed leveling will be easy to add.
Woo Hoo, this means Filament detection and bed leveling will be easy to add.
So, there is a bit
of work to do it this space for upgrades and ‘how to’s’ for firmware mods.
Next on my list the
PSU, I have a lot concerns about this unit as it only has a single output, is only a
15A supply and the XT60 Plug is not a original part and could potentially become a fire hazard (I will keep a really close
eye on this) I feel this will need to be upgraded in the future.
But I found the
construction overall to be sound and all the connections to the PSU where secure.
Everything else checked
out fine and I was ready to put it all together.
Assembly
The instructions
where really basic but so is the machine, (the English conversion on the
instructions are good) and was easy to understand.
Everything fitted well and as I added a new Bowden tube I had to muck around a bit to get the wiring on the upright gantry to work well.
Setting up and leveling the build platform was a breeze and took no time at all. I put the SD card into the printer and found only one file on it called A10 DOG, so I pressed
print… Then.....
FAIL!!!!!
The PLA that they supplied is
not the best quality, so I swapped it out for some high quality PLA,
And success.
The build platform
is an Aluminium/Glass/Adhesion layered hot bed. This work really well. But
caution is to be observed here, as you could take this coating off If you are
moving the head around to level it and you run the head into the plate.
User Interface and Navigation of the LCD Menu
This is an easy to
get around menu and has some interesting features. It lacks some info that I
would like to see but as it’s open source I will upgrade the firmware in the future.
It’s also a shame
they went with a small LCD as well, but like a said before all can be modified for upgrades on
this printer.
Upgrades and Modifications
This things that I
will look at doing to this Printer is:
- Replace the TX60 plug with a original one.
- Upgrade the 15A PSU to a 25A PSU.
- Cover the exposed solder point on the Heat Bed.
- Design and upgrade the hotend for a Fang setup.
- Add the filament runout sensor and bed levelling sensor.
- And look at a bigger LCD with upgraded Firmware.
Final Verdict
7/10
I am impressed with
this Printer. From unboxing to first print I have had no real problems and I can see
myself spending a bit of time on the printer. there is a lot missing from this printer but you pay for what you get and I feel you get a lot with this package.
Build Quality
7/10
The V-Rail construction
is great and the fact that all the axis’s have eccentric spacers for adjustment
is good to see. I also like the fact that only one part was 3D printed and all
the rest where manufactured. This give a better-quality feel about it.
Print Quality
8/10
First Layer
adhesion is excellent, and straight out of the box I got really good quality. I did some small tweaks in my slicer program and got even better results, so it is right up there in the quality department.
PROS
- Easy to assemble,
- Will be easy to upgrade in the future,
- Good quality print,
- Really well designed Build Platform, And
- Really Quite, yep I found this to be a really quiet machine too.
CONS
- No Duel Z lift setup,
- No external Mosfet for the HeatBed,
- PSU is not going to last the test of time at 15A, needs to be 25A,
- Hot end needs a bit more attention to detail, And
- A tiny bit more effort in the QC department would be great.
Conclusion
I really like this machine
now, I feel that it will make a good inclusion to my 3D printer arsenal and with
time I will be able to fine tune this machine for all of my smaller parts that
I print.
I really hope this helps you and please feel free to ask me a question or leave a comment about the GeeeTech A10.
Happy Printing,
PEZZER
Thank's for your review, I'm waiting for mine to be delivered so its nice to read an encouraging review.
ReplyDeleteThanks for that, I hope you have just as much enjoyment with your A10 as I am having. I have made no mod’s to this machine so far and it keeps impressing me with the quality. I’m just about to finish off a new blog with the A10 and PETG. Also check out the GeeeTech A10 Thingiverse Group @ https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/geeetech-a10-user-group if you have any issues.
DeleteI wont to buy my first 3d printer. What do u recomend ender ar a10?
ReplyDelete*ender 3 or a10?
DeleteI have been told that they are both great 3D printers. The GeeeTech A10 is just a bu=it newer in the tech department.
ReplyDeleteI have an a10 on order as my first 3d printer. I am curious as to your suspicions regarding the 360w power supply. Arent most prusa style cheap printers only 180 to 240w and 12v rather than 360w 24v of the a10? I would assume that if only printing pla or occaissionally petg(very excited to check the a10/petg blog you mentioned on it when complete) that the 360w would be more than adequate. Just curious to hear your thoughts and thanks for the great review...I believe I made a pretty good semi-educated choice for my first cheap 3d printer.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Eli
G'day Eli,
DeleteI had the power supply die on me, so I upgraded it. It had around 200hrs before it went. I went up in AMPs as I wanted to print in PETG.
Chech out the blog http://pezzer2003.blogspot.com/2018/07/pezzers-anet-e10-3d-printer-review.html
Cheers,
PEZ
Pez,
ReplyDeletePrinter is printing and printing pretty well. Had a few QC issues - busted top z screw support, and my extruder motor connection was 180 deg to the outside straining the stepper wires so i rotated the motor. I cannot seem to get part cooling fan to work during print regardless of slicer settings. If I run the preheat cycle for pla it kicks on so its not am electrical issue. One chap on the geeetech forums mentioned he wrote new marlin firmware update for it that fixed the cooling fan issue. Did you have this same problem and also is there an easy step by step tutorial on updating firmware through arduino IDE somewhere? Im new to this stuff and not real clear how to do it. Any comments would be appreciated. I also had the nozzle dive into my pretty calibration cube at the end of the print even though there was a raise z command post print in the gcode file I created using slic3r. Any ideas?
Thanks so much,
Eli
G'day Eli,
DeleteI use Craftware as my slicing program. https://craftunique.com/craftware/ It works really well and Is easy to understand.
I have not tried to upgrade the firmware yet.. But when I do I will be doing a blog on it..
I am downloading Craftware now. The pre gcode in Slic3r had a go to z5 command that drove it to z5 no matter what. Used g91 relative position and that solved nose diving. The cooling fan on my a10 is either 100% on or 100% off (255 in all cases) so no pwm control that's a little disappointing. Overall a good sturdy little machine. ill be sure to check out your continued travels and thanks for helping out a noob.
DeleteThanks for the awesome review, best I've seen.
ReplyDeleteJust wanted to let you know I joined the group of thingiverse, and wanted to know if you have an update on those mods?
My A10 is arriving in a few days, and will do a breakdown like you did. Again thanks for that, it was something I hadn't even considered. But will do.
As for Power Supply, is 25A enough? I've seen some people say 30A is better, thoughts?
Do you suggest upgrading the firmware out the box? If I remember correctly, it comes with 1.8, but 1.9 is out now.
You know I have been Flat out printing and have had no issues with the Power supply so far. and I haven't had to make any mods so far either... Maybe the fan cover under for the Processor but I'm really happy with it at the moment..
DeleteThanks for the reply.
DeleteIs the PS that it has able to run a Raspberry PI, with minimal issues, as well?
I recon it would, If the PI can handle 24V then it shouldn't be an issue.
DeleteThis is a great article post, really I like this types of informative post.
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